|
Philip Laffer - Winemaker
When Philip Laffer was named Australia's Winemaker of the
Year in 2002, the comments made by judging panel provided
a succinct assessment of a man who has had an extraordinary
influence both on Orlando Wines and the Australian wine
industry.
"Phil Laffer is the quintessential large company winemaker:
the kind of visionary who has made the Australian wine industry
so successful on the export markets," said panel chairman
Peter Forrestal.
"Under his direction, the Orlando ultra premiums have
excelled, the Jacob's Creek Reserve range has overdelivered
on value, and the huge volume Jacob's Creek wines have steadily
improved and held their popularity in an increasingly crowded
market place."
Philip's response was typically modest and self-effacing:
"Awards like this, in a large company, are really given
in recognition of a team effort," he said. "This
award is an accolade for us all."
But Philip is very much the captain of the ship, overseeing
a team of more than 20 winemakers and a small army of viticulturists
and grape growers, technical experts, production people and
marketers.
His professional life runs at a frenetic pace, overseeing
vintage from February to May, then hitting the road to nurture
overseas markets – alternating a week away with a week
at home, shuttling between the UK, America and Japan hosting
dinners, attending trade shows, talking to distributors.
Philip makes sure, however, that he's at Rowland Flat in
the Barossa Valley for the all-important vintage classification
and blending tastings during June and July.
Despite his huge commitments in a company that spans South
Australia, Victoria and New South Wales, Philip remains a
remarkably hands-on winemaker. After a 40-year career, that
included heading winemaking operations at Lindemans for many
years before joining Orlando, he continues to work closely
with his winemakers.
He says he has several roles within Orlando: creating the
right working environment for his winemaking team to achieve
their best; as the guardian of style of Orlando's extensive
portfolio; improving the company's viticulture and winemaking
technology; and as Orlando's winemaking "face" –
especially in overseas markets.
It's a far cry from the youthful days when he wanted to be
a veterinary surgeon. He might have been, except his father,
a vineyard owner and lecturer at Roseworthy Agricultural College,
said he wasn't bright enough. That was a typically paternal
underassessment, because Philip was smart enough to win a
scholarship to Roseworthy, where he studied agricultural science
while working vintages at local wineries.
His first wine industry job was with Lindemans, in a winery
near Rutherglen, where he says he "fell in with an extraordinary
group of winemakers in the surrounding area, people like Mick
Morris, fascinating characters who were all keen to impart
their knowledge.
"Almost every day there was a formal tasting of up to
20 wines… it was great grounding in the wine industry."
Philip moved through the Lindeman's ranks, becoming Marketing
Director, Deputy Managing Director and, finally, Executive
Director – Operations and Chief Winemaker when Lindemans
was taken over by Penfolds.
Orlando seized the moment and persuaded Philip it was time
to move on, initially as Operations Director, then Company
Winemaker and, since 1995, as Orlando's Chief Winemaker and
Director of Viticulture and Winemaking.
Philip has been the guiding hand behind the enormous commercial
success of the Jacob's Creek range, including the introduction
in 2000 of the upmarket Jacob's Creek Reserve and Limited
Release ranges.
However, his greatest achievement has been the way he has
orchestrated the steady improvement of the traditional Jacob's Creek
range, the biggest selling Australian wine label in the world
and the financial backbone of the Orlando Wines company.
As Orlando's arbiter of style, he has to ensure consistent
high quality across the range and setting the targets for
his winemakers to meet.
"Understanding the importance of style is critical when
you have such a large range of brands as Orlando," he
says. "Each style must have its own image and reason
to exist, whether it's Jacob's Creek, Poet's Corner, Centenary
Hill or Jacaranda Ridge. But style is not a static thing.
It has to develop as consumers' likes and dislikes change,
which means you have to re able to read the market."
None of this would be possible unless he was also a good
team leader. Philip has a rare blend of focus, discipline
and clearsightedness combined with a down-to-earth wisdom,
quiet modesty and consideration for others. He doesn't issue
edicts from on high — he's out there with his winemakers
and viticulturists daily, tasting, talking and earning considerable
respect with such gestures as clearing away and washing up
the glasses after a tasting.
A man of extraordinary energy, he sets a pace and a standard
that could be the benchmark for any young winemaker beginning
his or her career. While one day he may be in one of Orlando
Wines' vineyards in NSW, Victoria or South Australia, he may
well be in an international market the next talking about
Australian wine and in particular the brands for which he
has responsibility.
He extends this enthusiasm beyond the company, too. Name
virtually any industry association or research body and Laffer
either is or has been a highly active member of it. An articulate
international ambassador both for Orlando Wines and the
Australian wine industry, he believes this contribution is
vital to maintaining Australia's position at the cutting edge
of the global wine industry.
Still as keen and enthusiastic as he was at the start of
his career, Philip has no desire to be seen as an elder statesman
of the industry he loves. He just wishes he were at least
five years younger, so fascinated is he by the rapid pace
of development currently taking place.
|
